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Multilingualism: Learning to Read

  • 09/06/202009/06/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Our 8-year-old daughter is a multilingual child. She speaks four languages, and can read in just as many. How did we get her reading in these languages? Was it easy? Or, is she just gifted? Did she have any particular difficulties? These are just some of the many questions people ask themselves and ask us about multilingualism and learning to read.

How did we get our child to speak four languages?

From birth, our daughter was cradled in three languages: English, French and Italian. Spanish came later. For us, it has always been important pass on to her our mother tongues, English and French, as well as the language of our country of residence, first Italian and then Spanish.

We adopted the famous “one language, one person” method.

Multilingualism and learning to read - Shakespeare and Company bookshop in Paris
Our Franco-British girl posing in front of the most famous English bookshop in Paris – Shakespeare and Company

I always spoke to her in French, and Adam in English. Since our neutral language is Italian, her ear has always been naturally attuned to it from a very early age. She was also exposed to it at her nursery in Rome, and through our many Italian friends. Indeed, her very first words were in Italian. On moving to Spain, Spanish then became her language of socialization outside the family nucleus, that is in school, shops, cafés and restaurants, with friends, during after-school activities, and so on.

We often hear that multilingual children have difficulties learning to speak, that they learn to speak late or speak very little.

Well, that’s both true and false. It’s true if you want to enumerate the words spoken in each language, but false if you take all the languages on board. For example, most 3-year-old monolingual children can count to 10, while a multilingual child may stop at 5, but will be able to do so in all languages. So, in the end, the multilingual child can accumulate a greater total number of words, though many of them may remain hidden to any individual monolingual interlocutor. Thus, it’s not a question of late development, far from it.

Let’s not forget that the vocabulary flourishes with reading.

The more you read, the more words you learn.

That’s why we’ve never worried about our daughter’s vocabulary. It didn’t matter to us if, at three years old, she spoke a little less than her classmates. Of course, plenty of people told us we were confusing her, that she should stick to the language of the country she was growing up in, at least at first, and that her sentences were all jumbled up. We know it can be easier to criticise than to praise, and even more so when the object of that criticism doesn’t fit into society’s normal mould.

How did we deal with criticism of our method?

We completely ignored it of course! Without the least regret. Multilingualism is a wonderful opportunity, and represents an opening of the spirit to everything the world has to offer. But, it isn’t an easy path to take, and it doesn’t just happen by itself. It has to be important to a child’s parents or guardians. Whenever she got frustrated with trying to express herself correctly in the correct context, we were there, step by step, encouraging and reassuring her.

Bookshops, always magical places
Every trip, a bookshop

In practical terms, how did we get our child reading in various languages?

Like many parents, we read to her and with her every single night. But we also travelled lots, spent time with our families, both in the UK and France. We made her understand the importance of languages by getting her to talk with our families, play with her cousins, meet other children at airports and museums and parks in each of the respective countries. Once the oral foundations were in place, we gradually integrated more and more reading. In English, Adam followed the phonics methodology of Oxford University Press’ Biff, Chip and Kipper, focusing on one main sound at every read. In French, I used the classic Boscher sequential syllabic approach.

At what age did she begin to actually read on her own?

We started the real push for learning to read at the age of five, so that she could focus a little more on the Spanish side of things at the start of compulsory primary school. This meant that, when she started, at the age of six, she already knew how to read a few sentences in English and French, and could recognize all the various phonetic sounds of both languages. After meeting with her teacher, we agreed to dial back English and French for a bit, to allow more time for Spanish books. By the second term, she was already reading in Spanish. By the third, she was doing it on her own.

Our daughter's first Spanish book collection
Her first collection: Begoña Oro’s books about Rasi the Squirrel and his gang

Growing up, she’s always been surrounded by books, and has always seen us read. This is one of the keys to reading for a child, that she sees others doing it! And so, our local international bookshop, Picasso, became one of her favourite stores, and her bedroom rapidly became a library.

So, at the age of 6, she was speaking in Spanish, English, French and Italian, and reading fluently in Spanish.

What about reading in the other languages?

Here, we had to insist a little more. But not force it. Let’s be clear, we never pressured her, we just gave her the opportunity to read on her own in Spanish, or read with us in our languages. As with speaking, we made a concerted effort to help her understand that reading in other languages was important, and that it would open up the world to her, or rather many worlds.

Multilingualism and learning to read - reading in English
Reading and colouring at the same time

To start with, we focused on reintroducing English. She already knew the sounds, and was studying a little English at school, but the real key was finding a book she would simply fall in love with.

Adam searched high and low for the right book. Something not too scary, not too old, not too girly. He read reviews online, asked the whole family for advice, and sought recommendations from friends on what their kids were reading. Scouring Waterstone’s bookshops in the UK, he showed her a succession of book covers and reading out all the blurbs. He guided her in choosing what he thought she would enjoy the most, according to her own character, but always let her choose in the end. The first real novel she got hooked on was the first of Pamela Butchart’s “Baby Aliens Got My Teacher” series.

From that moment on, she was well away with reading alone in both Spanish and English. Effortlessly, she would alternate between the two languages on a whim. And she would dive into whatever she laid her eyes on as she climbed into bed.

What about French then?

With Spanish and English pretty much now in the bag, we began to tiller round to the dear old language of Molière and its challenging pronunciations.

From my mum’s, I had recovered my beloved collection of books from the “Bibliothèque Rose”, or “Pink Library” series. I thought it would be perfect. Alas, no! For two main reasons. First, she had not chosen the books herself, and, second, the language in these books, in the light of today’s French, was somewhat dated. So, she took no real pleasure in reading them.

If I read to her, she would enjoy it, but if I told her that it was her turn to read, she would drag her feet. She started telling me that reading in French was just too difficult. The phonetic liaisons, nasal vowels, all those letter at the ends of words that you simply don’t pronounce, and all the rest of it.

Multilingualism and learning to read - reading in French
Reading Tom-Tom et Nana on the train from Paris

I let it be for a few months. Then, I signed her up for monthly instalments of the magazines “J’aime Lire”, meaning “I like reading”, and the news-based “Images Doc”, published respectively as “Adventure Box” and “Discovery Box” in English. Finally, we were on to something, and back reading in French. With J’aime Lire, she discovered the comic strip of Tom-Tom and Nana, or Tom and Lili in English. That opened the gateway to other comics, such as Asterix, Mickey Mouse, Spirou and Fantasio, and, of course, Tintin! She read the complete series of Tintin issues within just a few days, and has read them three or four times since!

So, finally, what about Italian?

Reading in Italian was introduced through her various Italian babysitters. Learning to read in Italian is pretty straightforward if you already know how to read in Spanish. Indeed, she only had to learn to identify a few distinct sounds, or phonemes, such as the “ch” pronounced as a “k”. In particular, she loves reading Topolino, the Italian version of Disney’s Mickey Mouse comic books.

Reading on the floor in a Milanese bookshop
Reading on the floor in a Milanese bookshop in the Navigli quarter

So that’s how our daughter learnt to read in 4 languages. It wasn’t always easy. We also count on loads of support from her grandmothers, “Nanny” and “Mamie”, who have always read to her and bought her plenty of books, and from her various British, French and Italian babysitters. It was a real team effort.

At any point in time, we could have easily given up and opted for the easy option, that of leaving it up to school to teach her to read, and only in Spanish. But we wanted to give her the opportunity of multilingualism well beyond basic oral expression.

Today, the results are evident. Through reading, her vocabulary has been enriched enormously in each language. She has also discovered the culture behind each language. She can talk about the adventures of Tintin, Captain Haddock and Professor Calculus until the cows come home. And we’ve been able to explain to her the various facets of colonialism, and other themes such as the exploration of space.

What’s the next step?

I would love to read Harry Potter with her in its original language. It’s the dream of any true non-English mother tongue HP fan. She’s reluctant at the moment because she still thinks it’s too scary. However, I know that one day she’ll say to me, “Mum, let’s just read the first chapter together”. And, just as soon as our backs are turned, she’ll carry on reading on her own! Because our multilingual child has become a true bookworm.

What about our youngest child?

Well, we still at the cooing and babbling stage. But she’s exposed to all four languages the same. Just as with our elder daughter, we’ll try our very best to teach her to speak and read in different languages. We will not force her, simply encourage and reassure her. And we’ll give her all the tools we can to help her learn. We may have to adapt our method. Who knows? Everything in its own time. Everyone’s learning path is different. Every child is different. And that’s just as well.

Hotel Andalou, Montellano ¡Olé!

Andalusian Businesses & Covid-19 – Hotel

  • 23/05/202023/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Andalusian businesses and Covid-19 – Interview with hotel owners Virginie and Bertrand

Betrand and Virginie in typical Andalusian attire
Hotel owners Betrand and Virginie in typical Andalusian attire

Andalusia is a very popular region with the French. Its warm climate, relaxed lifestyle and unique culture mean that millions of international tourists – as many as 12 million in 2019 – visit every year. Some decide to settle just for pleasure, and others decide to set up a business here. But for now, beyond all the red tape and cultural complications, those entrepreneurs are facing the unprecedented new challenge of Covid-19 restrictions affecting their businesses. To find out more about the difficulties of business coping with the Covid-19 crisis, I set up a virtual meeting with Virginie and Bertrand, owners of Hotel Andalou in Montellano, a “pueblo blanco”, or traditional Andalusian whitewashed town, less than an hour to the south of Seville, which has an impressive 60 bars for just over 7000 inhabitants!

Tell me a little about your background. How did you end up in Andalusia?

We just fell in love with it. For several years, we’d been here on holiday. At the beginning, it was once a year, then twice a year, until one day we took the plunge and moved! That was 7 years ago now. So it was in September 2013 that our 11-year-old daughter started school here in Montellano. My husband continued to work in Nîmes for another 2 years, while I created my travel agency, Andalucía Afición Voyages.

Virginie runs a travel agency that organizes a range of tours and events
Virginie also runs a travel agency that organizes a range of tours and events

Was it difficult settling in? For example, with the language barrier?

No, we settled in quite easily actually. We quickly made friends. We already knew a little Spanish, but it was mainly the local café that gave us a schooling in Andalusian life. It’s there that we started building ties with the community, learning the way of life and how to fit in. Besides that, we’ve got a real passion for Andalusia and its traditions. We live the Andalusian way of life to the full, and there’s really no better compliment for us than people saying we are true Andalusians. It was the same with our daughter. In just two months, she was already speaking Spanish. It was incredible!

Virginie, Betrand and their two daughters
Virginie, Betrand and their two daughters

When did you take over the hotel?

That was in 2015. What a year! It’s when we had our second daughter too! When I got pregnant, my husband left his job in France, and it just happened that the hotel was up for sale! I remember taking care of both the hotel and the travel agency while playing with my daughter in her cot!

How did it all go?

Very well indeed. It was a dream come true. We were already part of the local community, and knew lots of people here. We weren’t just some foreigners who rolled up and took over the local hotel. And, of course, my travel agency business and that of the hotel perfectly complemented and completed each other. So we could offer an all-in-one service to our customers. A full immersion in the local culture.

How are you coping now with the current crisis?

Well, we’re still working. Just differently, that’s for sure! We’re thinking about the future. I’ve had to manage all the agency activities, such as cancellations, questions, requests, refunds, and so on, but also I’ve had to deal with people’s fears. There are many things going round on the internet, in the media. It’s not always easy for people to make sense of things, to know where the truth lies. Even more so when there’s a language barrier! As a travel agency manager, I have to reassure my customers and explain everything to them.

It’s true that it’s difficult to predict exactly how it’ll all evolve, but it’s important people know that the situation’s no worse in Spain than anywhere else. Thanks to social media, I can easily keep in touch with my customers. The same goes for the hotel too. We’ve got customers who come every year, and they’re telling us they will be back. They too are fond of this land. So, we’re all in it together. We know that, business wise, this year’s a washout. But we’ve got to keep going. We left two steady jobs in France to pursue our dream. The adventure’s not going to end like this!

All of Andalusia entered the so-called “Phase 1” on Monday. How does that change things?

Well, it changes everything and nothing! On a business level, not very much. Travel is limited, hotels can open but you can’t use their common areas. We prefer not to open under such conditions. Who would want to come? And why? So, it’s better to focus on promoting the hotel on the Internet, spread the word, diversify our offerings. In any case, my husband and the seasonal workers we employ are in the process of preparing the hotel.

We have to be ready to open when they give us the green light to do so! On a social level, there are some changes. We can see our friends. Not only did we fall in love with this land, but also with its people. Normally working in close contact with people, and, now, having not socialized for over two months, it’s been difficult. I can’t wait to go back to my day-to-day work for the human side of it, meeting people, sharing things, that’s life! That’s the life I love, that we love, that’s why we chose to come and settle here.


Want a relaxing break as the restrictions are relaxed?

Virginie and Bertrand will be delighted to welcome you to Hotel Andalou in Montellano.

Hotel Andalou, Montellano
Hotel Andalou, Montellano

Want to discover the true Andalusia?

Contact Virginie and her travel agency Andalucía Afición Voyages.



Article originally published in French in Le Petit Journal, the local and international news site for French expatriates and French speakers.


Read my other interviews with Andalusian business owners facing the Covid-19 crisis:

– Flamenco fashion designer Antonio Gutiérrez.

– Cereal café owner Ludovic Meloen.


Compétences-Cuisiner©Boredwithborders2020 Lockdown Highlife

My Lockdown Lowdown

  • 15/05/202015/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville
It’s been almost two months since our lives suddenly changed. From one day to the next. We’ve had to take stock of a new situation, adapting ourselves to a perimeter that has shrunk dramatically. Our home’s become our universe: a school, a gym, an office, a crèche, a playground, a campsite. An all-in-one space.
Two months is a long time, but it’s flown by. It all depends on your own perception. In Andalusia, we’re used to spending lots of time with our older daughter during the long summer months. And, ho-hum, this year the big hols are gonna be even bigger! But, with no possibility of going out, at least during the very first six weeks, and no school, no family, no after-school activities, we’ve all had to invent and reinvent ourselves.

So, on a personal level, what have I been up to during these last two months? What new skills have I acquired? Because, we’ve all developed skills, right? We’ve all been getting up to something a bit different from usual. What have you been doing? How have you been spending these two months? Learnt anything new? Developed a new passion? While I wait to read your answers, let me give you my own lockdown lowdown:

  • Urban kitchen garden

… that’s most likely not going to bear any fruit … or vegetables! But at least we’ve tried, and, by this time next year, I really hope our fingers will be a shade greener. For 2 or 3 years now, we’ve been saying that we’re going to grow stuff on the terrace, and, then, we don’t. But, faced with the uncertainty of certain supplies, and an irrational churning fear in our stomachs that the end of the world is nigh, we’ve managed to create some sort of desperate garden on our terrace. Not having that green gene, however, we made the mistake of putting possibly a few years’ worth of seeds in just two wooden boxes of 40 by 30 by 50!

Don't put all your seeds in the same urban garden box during lockdown.
There’s plenty of salad, some courgettes poking through, and, probably at some point, some tom-toms all fighting for precious space!

Ah, all gardeners despair!

  • Cook up mash up

I’ve been too busy lately to don apron, roll sleeves and cook it up. Truth be told, I’ve become a bit of a take-away junkie. But, there’s no joy on that front, since our usual Friday – and any other day – night deliveries aren’t an option. So, we’ve gone back to the hot stove. Both adults, in turns. We’ve dug out recipes from the back of our cultural cupboards. And we’ve given ourselves over to batch cooking. Our wallets can only thank us for removing apps such as Glovo and Deliveroo from our mobes!

  • Self-styled hair stylist

Armed with a pair of half-broken kitchen or, alternatively, our eight-year-old’s kiddie-craft scissors, and an old comb, I styled a cut surely satisfactory enough to get me into barbers’ school. A grand success! Just don’t ask me for a photo, I didn’t take one, and, modestly speaking, it probs won’t quite make the double-page spread of Barber’s World anyway.

  • Certified video-conferencing expert

Zoom, Microsoft Teams, Skype, WhatsApp, LearnCube, Facetime, whatever you throw at me, I can take it! Have you used any another video-chat? Am I missing anything out? Tell me, and I get on the case over the coming weeks!

Just to add a few more lines to my CV!

How many socials can we bear to have on our phones during lockdown?
When practically all social relations are virtual …
  • Website dev

Our third child, we’ve been working on it for quite some time, but between children and (real 😉 ) work, we’d had to leave it to one side. Well, it was finally time to get back to it, refine it, update it, in short, take a little more care of it. You can do your bit too. It loves to be Social, get Likes, Shares, Comments, and of course Subscriptions. So please don’t hesitate to indulge it. You can do the same for the corresponding Facebook page and Instagram profile too. The proud parents will be thrilled!

So much for the list of accomplishments, or semi-accomplishments. For a proper lockdown eval., we need to look at the negatives too, what’s left undone, what needs working on?

Let’s take a look at what I haven’t been able to bring myself to do or I’ve been putting off. Some points on this list could potentially move from the dark side into the light, since in Granada, we’re still in Lock-down Release Phase 0. What’s LDR Phase 0, I hear you ask? Basically, nothing! I can therefore continue to develop both useful and useless skills to enrich my skill set.

Without further ado then, here’s my list of “didn’t do’s”:

  • Netflix / Disney binge

Zippity zilch! Though it’s not for lack of trying! We had a go with Money Heist, or “La Casa de Papel“. Since living in Spain without having seen arguably Spain’s most famous series aboard seemed something we should feel an inkling of shame about. So, one evening, armed with chocolate and blankets, we dove in and managed to get through the first episode before Morpheus took us hostage. The next evening, we tackled another. And then, nothing! I know I’m going against the grain here, but it just didn’t quite click with us. Just as we didn’t get the bug for Game of Thrones, Outlander, Breaking Bad, and all such like. Sorry all you megafans out there!

  • House Party

We got down and dirty with some virtual drinks. Bit of karaoke here and there. We celebrated the Day of the Cross, one of Granada’s most popular festivities, but, no, we haven’t done a House Party. No remote Pictionary, Heads Up, Quick Draw, Trivia or drunken masquerades. There you have it, we’re obvs not as on-trend as all that.

Don't shoot the lockdown photographer!
Camera, lights, action!
  • TikTok whatnot

If we’d felt like joining the virtual party, why not TikTok? To be honest, I have had TikTok on my phone for going on 2 years now, though I never use it. I just dip in occasionally to check up on challenges I never partake in.

You might not know it, but I’m caught up, down to a T … for TikTok

  • Challenges from your lounges

Speaking of challenges, done any? Because there’s been quite a few over the last few weeks. Among the most popular there’s the Pillow Challenge, Dalgona Coffee and the #JLoTikTokChallenge. Sorry to disappoint yet again, I haven’t transmogrified myself into a body-jerking JLo, donned a pillow for a dress or spooned a thousand-calorie drink they dare to call coffee.

  • Controller freak

Last but certainly not least, no Y-X-B-A, no gamepad bashing, no Animal Crossing. I must admit that I was tempted by the idea of buying a Nintendo Switch from the get go. Even if I know I wouldn’t use it all that much. Only our daughter would play! So no Switch, no Animal Crossing. But, hey, having never been a fan of The Sims, I’m not convinced I’d get hooked on Animal Crossing.

And that’s all for now for my lock-down eval. I’ll probably have more to say in a month or so’s time about other projects we’ve got cooking.

In the meantime, feel free to comment and share. Recipes, TV series, games, family activities – I’m all ears!

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Grenade, quand allons-nous pouvoir pleinement profiter de toi ? Quand pourrons-nous sortir et t'admirer tranquillement ? Des instants volés de toi, voilà notre quotidien. ______________________________________ #granada #andalucia #AndaluciaTequiereEnCasa #EspañaTeEspera #SpainWillWait #ok_granada #total_granada #tourisme #turismo #travel #spain #espagne #andalousie #vieenandalousie #place #voyage #sortie #beautifuldestinations #TeEnseñoMiGranada

A post shared by Coralie Neuville (@coralieneuville) on May 9, 2020 at 1:56pm PDT

Businesses are coping with the Covid-19 crisis by taking the time to better promote their products and services. This is a photo by Kiko Lozano © of the collection Souvenir by Antonio Gutiérrez. ¡Olé!

Andalusian Businesses & Covid-19 – Fashion Designer

  • 08/05/202023/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Andalusian businesses and Covid-19 – Interview with flamenco fashion designer Antonio Gutiérrez

From the collection Souvenir by Antonio Gutiérrez – Photo by Kiko Lozano ©

Spain’s Covid-19 state of alarm entered into effect on the 14th of March 2020, just a few days before the start of the season of the most celebrated Andalusian festivities. How are businesses in Andalusia coping with the Covid-19 crisis?

Every year, millions of tourists come to Andalusia for Holy Week, the Seville Fair, the Cordoba Patio Festival and Granada’s Day of the Cross. It’s also this time of year that one of Spain’s most important pilgrimages takes place, the Romería of El Rocío.

In 2019 alone, these festivities contributed over a billion and a half Euros to the region’s GDP.

And, this year, they’ve all been cancelled. So, to see how Andalusian businesses are managing with Covid-19 crisis, and, at the same time, give a voice to various protagonists of Andalusian culture and tradition, the Andalusian section of the international French news site Le Petit Journal commissioned a series of portraits of Andalusian entrepreneurs.

One of these is the following interview of mine with the flamenco fashion designer Antonio Gutiérrez.

Granada’s flamenco fashion week had just come to an end when the Spanish government declared the state of alarm. How did you take the news?

This time of year’s really important for us. There’s the Seville Fair, the pilgrimages, and, of course, lots of weddings. And, from one day to the next, our production completely stopped. We had to cancel everything.

Economically, how is the situation?

Well, currently, we’re not receiving any new orders. Though my customers haven’t cancelled their orders, so, for the moment, it’s fine.

I’ve got a full order book. But next year, what’s going to happen?

Will my customers just wear the creations they bought this year. That means they won’t be ordering anything next year. So, in any case, I’ve decided that, for now, I won’t be putting on any sales.

The government has promised some form of aid for businesses trying to cope with the Covid-19 crisis. Can you benefit from it?

My workshop’s shut, and my seamstresses are all at home, furloughed. We’re waiting to be able to resume production.

But more than any subsidy, I would like the national as much as the regional government to give us creators more visibility. This moment in time should serve as a lesson.

How would that work?

Together with other flamenco fashion designers, we’ve created an association, Qlamenco, whose prime objective is to get flamenco fashion formally acknowledged as a craft industry.

We want the flamenco dresses that have inspired internationally renowned stylists, such as Christian Lacroix or Dolce & Gabbana, to be seen as an art form. We want the business that revolves around it to be based on the model of the Paris or Milan Fashion Week.

For this, we need the Spanish government and the Andalusia Region to support us. To recognize it as an art.

Flamenco fashion is the only regional fashion that continually changes, evolves, creates jobs and is admired the world over, year in, year out.

That’s why we have to have a presence at major events, such as Madrid’s International Tourism Fair, FITUR.

And, during the Paris Fashion Week, why not organize a parallel flamenco fashion show at the Spanish Embassy?

We need space, we need visibility. Even more so after this crisis.

Right now, how are you coping with the Covid-19 crisis on a daily basis?

I’m a positive person. I adapt easily.

I’m particularly active on social media. It’s my way of staying connected with the world.

My brand is selling in Dubai and Belgium. I have to keep it up. For this, social media really works well. As I said before, we are trying to make things happen, to have a broader recognition of flamenco fashion.

Many fashion houses have been manufacturing masks and protective equipment during this crisis …

Us too! When we shut the workshop, all the seamstresses took their sewing machines with them. Some stores in Granada supplied us with fabric. This kind of helping hand is normal. With this crisis, we have had this surge of solidarity, a humanity that has found itself a little lost of late.

Do you have a final message for our readers?

Andalusia is a land well-known for celebration and good humour. I have to admit that, as an Andalusian, I’m very proud of how people here have respected the lock-down.

Us Andalusians are often seen as a bit of a black sheep, but we’ve shown that, beyond the sun and the fun, we can be serious too. We have adapted to this unprecedented situation, all the while keeping a smile on our faces.

Ours is a land of traditions and of solidarity. So we look forward to welcoming back all the world’s lovers of Andalusia and Andalusian culture with open arms.

Businesses are coping with the Covid-19 crisis by taking the time to better promote their products and services. This is a photo by Kiko Lozano © of the collection Souvenir by Antonio Gutiérrez.
From the collection Souvenir by Antonio Gutiérrez – Photo by Kiko Lozano ©

Find out more about designer Antonio Gutiérrez by visiting his website, Facebook page or Instagram profile.

Article originally published in French in Le Petit Journal, the local and international news site for French expatriates and French speakers.


Read my other interviews with Andalusian business owners facing the Covid-19 crisis:

– Cereal café owner Ludovic Meloen.

– Hotel owners Virginie and Betrand.


The Cross in Plaza Carmen pays homage to the Alhambra ¡Olé!

The Day of the Cross

  • 04/05/202023/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

The Day of the Cross: My favourite of Granada’s festivities

Picture of a flower cross in Granada's town square with a setting paying homage to the Alhambra.
The Cross in Plaza Carmen pays homage to the Alhambra

Once a year, I dress up to the nines, thread a rose through my hair, grab my hand-painted fan, and head out to meet my friends. No, it’s not a masked ball, but Granada’s Día de la Cruz, or Day of the Cross.

Well, what’s the Day of the Cross all about? What do we get up to? And why do I look forward to it so intensely every year?

Falling on the 3rd of May, it was originally conceived as a celebration of the Holy Cross and a Christian holiday right across the Christian world. However, little by little, it was abandoned and finally removed from the Church’s calendar. In certain places, it evolved into a popular festival, while retaining its religious name and some connotations. In Andalusia, the festivity, which arrives with the spring bloom, is arguably most passionately celebrated in Cordoba and Granada.

It was back in the 17th century that the Day of the Cross really took off in Granada. At first, neighbours simply gathered around a cross decorated with flowers to eat, drink and chat together. With growing enthusiasm, these convivial meetings began to be highly organized, with neighbourhood committees competing to build the most beautiful cross and setting, and inviting the rest of the town to come and gush over their craftsmanship and artistry. Today, the town council runs a fiercely contended competition for the most beautiful cross. “Cross, cross, on the wall, who is the fairest of them all?” And, as with most beauty contests, there are several categories to win, according to the specific setting, be it a patio, restaurant, school, or so on.

Of course, there are also the favourites, the darlings of jury and bookmakers year in, year out!

Picture of a flower cross with a Spanish literature themed setting.
A tribute to Spanish literature

As the results come in, there’s always some disappointment, voices raised to denounce the jury’s favouritism, and then it all gets lost in the ensuing festivities, and the controversies are all but forgotten until the following year.

But I digress … The Day of the Cross is much more than a beauty pageant for flowery crosses, it is hours and hours of preparation that brings people together in good humour, not only to erect the cross, but to build a kind of altar, and set at its feet all manner of Andalusian arts and crafts, all to the tune of the finest flamenco music.

Father and daughter standing in front of a flower cross dressed in traditional attire.
Father and daughter in front of a cross

A delectable anecdote

At my first Día de la Cruz, as green as I was, I was surprised to find an apple with stabbed with scissors below every single cross, thinking, “What does an apple and a pair of scissors have to do with the cross?” Well, in Andalusian dialect, the word for “apple” is “pero”, but “pero” also means “but”! So the metaphor of the apple and the scissors is to symbolise the cutting short of any sort of criticism of the cross, such as “It’s pretty … but … then, in place of this, I would have done that …”, etc.

Apart from the apple, there’s something else that can’t be overlooked on the 3rd of May. Since Granada is the land of tapas, we don’t simply go out to eat in a restaurant. We go out to “tapear”. The food on offer is extremely varied, and the price of about two Euros fifty for a drink and a tapa drives consumption. But, on the day of the festivity, all self-respecting bars will serve you a handful of broad beans to sink your teeth into. And as it is the peak harvest season of this particular legume, there are plenty to go round!

Some broad beans and a slice of lard on a toasted bread roll.
Broad beans, the tapa star of the Day of the Cross.

However, surely the true stars of the Día de la Cruz are the women strutting around in their magnificent flamenco dresses, afraid to eat or drink too much, just in case the stitches and laces begin to work themselves loose.

In Granada, the Day of the Cross is a real fashion show. Forget Paris, Milan and New York! Here, the avant-garde of flamenco fashion is played out in all its glory.

Ostentation is a must! Bright colours, small or large polka dots, vibrant flowers, and a dash of lace. Just don’t be shy. And that’s what I love! It’s a femininity that flourishes and blooms. You might find that corny or overblown … but only until the day you find yourself taking part. For me, that was the 3rd of May 2015, and there’s been no turning back. That’s when I really felt Granada as my city and my home. Dressed as a local, I became one. I was the one tourists stopped to take a picture of. I had crossed the mirror.

Mother and daughter in traditional Andalusian dress.
Mirror, mirror, on the wall, tell me, who is the fairest of them all?

For more information, here are the official tourism websites of:

  • Andalusia
  • The City of Granada
  • The Province of Granada

Feel free to comment, let me know what you think, ask for recommendations, and share this article!

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Feliz Día de la Madre 💖 Aujourd'hui en Espagne, c'est la fête des mères. Photo : @adambishop_it #diadelamadre

A post shared by Coralie Neuville (@coralieneuville) on May 5, 2019 at 12:51am PDT

Fournitures scolaires Life abroad

The Spanish school system

  • 23/08/201929/08/2019
  • by Coralie Neuville

If you’re planning on settling in Spain with family and you don’t want to enrol your children in an international school, here’s what you need to know:

Educación Infantil – non-obligatory ‘infant education’

Divided into two phases, from 0 to 3 years old, and from 3 to 6 years old, ‘infant education’ in Spain roughly corresponds with that in other countries, though there are some important differences.

The first phase is nursery school. While state nurseries do exist, most families will have to pay for the service, and many nurseries are privately run. Class sizes are generally small, but one nursery will vary considerably from the next, so hunt around for one that best suits your ideals.

The second phase, from 3 to 6 years old, is when school starts proper. Though the whole phase is non-obligatory, the majority of kids will start at 3, and, at 6, will be better prepared for starting obligatory education. Another reason for taking advantage of the system at this point is that, from now on, unlike nurseries, infant school is practically free, though you will have to buy some materials, and, at private schools, may be asked for a tax-deductible donation. This is not the place where you drop your kid for a few hours to get the shopping done! It’s where you children will begin to develop a routine, and learn to adapt and socialize with other children.

Educación Primaria – obligatory ‘primary school’ lasting 6 years

Primary school in Spain lasts a little more than in many other countries, taking children from 6 years old right up to 12. You’ll will find that the majority of Spanish primary schools are bilingual, most bilingual Spanish-English, although some teach French, Catalan and other languages. As well as providing direct language lessons, the approach is also to teach various other subjects and content through the second language, such as maths, sports, natural and social sciences, music, arts and craft, religion – especially in religious charter schools called ‘concertados’. Another third language is then taught later on, so that children starting with English, in a bilingual Spanish-English, may then be given, for example, French lessons, though this third language is not used as a vehicle for other subjects.

Educación Secundaria – ‘secondary school’ lasting another 6 years

Secondary education starts at 12 years old and runs right up to 18, though children can also leave at 16, walking away with the qualification of ‘Educación Secundaria Obligatoria’ (ESO), that is ‘Obligatory Secondary Education’.

Those that decide to continue can take another 2 years to work up to obtaining the qualification of ‘Bachillerato’, or ‘baccalauréat’, equivalent to a high-school diploma or set of A-levels in the UK.

À étudier

The Spanish education system is thus similar to other countries in the total number of years, though is divided up rather differently.

Timetable

For infant and primary education, there are two competing models here in Spain, depending on the region, the first from 9 am to 1 pm, and then from 3 to 5pm, and the second from 9 am straight through to 2 pm. This rather short timetable is balanced out by not having half-term holidays, and so children are in school for roughly the same total hours per year as in other countries. To accommodate working parents and extend the day out a little top and tail, there is an ‘aula matinal’, or morning class, with some basic activities, and often a ‘comedor’, or luncheon service. However, at least in Granada, many children simply do not make use of these services, but rather rely on grandparents, family and friends to take up the slack.

But what the heck do children do the rest of the day?

Extracurricular activities! In Spain, they are particularly fond of clubs and outside activities, such as extra classes of English, music, dance, football, yoga, photography, tennis, swimming … practically anything you could think of! And for parents, what does this all mean? Well, (1) running about lots and juggling the various activities of siblings, (2) making sure you or someone else is available to do (1), and (3) paying an arm and a leg for all of it! The upside of this model is that kids and parents can freely choose from an unbelievably wide range of activities. The downside is that it discriminates against poorer families, since adding up a few days a week may well tot up to around 200 Euros per month per child, not to mention the costs of petrol, transport or simply time off work.

Holidays

School runs from mid-September to mid-June, finishing earlier and resuming a little later than in many other countries. But let’s not forget Spain’s hot climate in many of its regions. For example, when school’s out in Andalusia in June, temperatures often soar well above 30 degrees Celsius. The side effect of the longer summer is less holidays in the school calendar, there being only two main holiday periods, Christmas and Easter. Children usually celebrate the last day of school on the Friday before Christmas and are back just after Epiphany, that is the 6th of January, here celebrating the arrival of the Three Kings in Bethlehem often with a street procession, hand-thrown sweets and presents at home. The Easter holidays last at least a week, sometimes more depending on the region. Added to these longer holidays are shorter national, regional, provincial and local holidays, often long weekends – off on Thursday or Friday and back on Monday or Tuesday.

Different types of school

Like elsewhere, Spain has both state schools and private, but it is also has another category, the ‘concertado’, that is essentially charter schools partly funded by the state, partly funded by the church and partly funded, to a lesser extent, by parents. At a national level, it is estimated that 65% of children are educated in state schools, 27% in charter schools and 8% in private schools. However, numbers vary greatly from region to region. For example, in Granada, the city not the province, it’s the other way round, far more children attend charter schools than state or private schools. It is important to remember that places in many charter schools, and even in some state schools, are strictly limited according to a points system that accounts for where you live, where you work, the number of children you have, and so on. So, if you live in the south of the city, you probably won’t be able to enrol your child at a school in the north.

Costs

School books usually don’t come free or cheap, though, during the last financial crisis, a book ‘cheque’, or voucher, scheme was introduced for public and charter schools. This regional government aid, which does not cover all of the required books, is given indiscriminately to all pupils enrolled at a school, though not every year. Other school materials, such as pens and pencil cases, are not supplied, and, therefore, come September, families get a long list of things to buy for each school subject in the curriculum. At charter and private schools, there are other costs to consider, some optional and others not so, such as a resident doctor service, an ad-hoc app service for communicating with teachers, school uniforms, sports kits, extra-curricular activities, early morning class, lunch, donations, and so on. Finally, charter schools will often require a separate tuition fee, much like private schools, for the last two years of prepping for a ‘Bachillerato’ diploma.

As in every country, the school system in Spain has its advantages and disadvantages. You can find further information on the education system on the website of the Spanish Ministry of Education (not yet fully translated in English). Welcome to Spain!

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Aujourd'hui, on commence la préparation pour la rentrée scolaire. En Andalousie, c'est le 10 septembre (après 7 semaines de vacs !). 1. On doit aller chercher les livres. Notre fille rentre en CE1 mais elle a un livre par matière ! 2. Acheter le matériel scolaire (on vous recommande même les marques !) sauf l'agenda que nous achèterons à l'école directement. 3. Vérifier la tenue de sport (aux couleurs de l'école), et donc en acheter une nouvelle en cas de changement. 4. Finir le planning des activités. L'école finit à 14 h et l'après-midi est consacré à une activité. 5. Trouver des baby-sitters. Une pour chaque langue. Si avec tout ça elle ne va pas à Oxford (d'où la photo), on aura échoué notre mission de parents !😂 ________________________________________________ #rentree2018 #rentree #espagne #andalousie #oxford #programme #organisation #parents #enfants #viedexpat #viealetranger #ecole #findesvacs #reprise #babysitter #temps #planning #monument #liste #architecture #universityofoxford #grenade #erasmusengranada #backtoschool #vueltaalcole #maristas #ooheecommunity

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Pocketalk: pocket translator Tech

Pocketalk – The Universal Translator?

  • 18/05/202118/05/2021
  • by Adam Bishop

Tech Review

The universal translator, fact or fiction?

Science fiction authors have long dreamed of the universal translator, an essential device for far-ranging travellers, offering practically instantaneous translation between any pair of languages. Thought to be first properly described in William Fitzgerald Jenkins’ novelette ‘First Contact’, and featuring in countless series and films, from Doctor Who to Star Trek, Men in Black, Gibson’s ‘Neuromancer’ and Adams’ ‘The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy’, the device is ideally pocketable, somewhat discreet, and able to work absolutely anywhere in space and time.

Enter Pocketalk, a small voice translation device for 21st century Earth, which the mother-company, Sourcenext, has kindly sent me for free and invited me to review. So while we are still waiting on Elon Musk for holidays to Mars and beyond, let’s take a look at this device that suffices for 134 countries of the world’s total of 194, and 74 languages of the 100 languages with over 10 million first language speakers, that’s as much as 70% of the total world population. I mean, pretty much, Sourcenext, Japan’s number one software publishing house, has your holidays covered. If you’re going anywhere you don’t speak the local lingo, well, you can just reach into your pocket and talk.

Pocketalk: pocket translator

Pocketalk: Press the button to automagically translate your speech.

Blinging gold or silver, racy red, or conservative black

Pocketalk, for the moment, comes in 4 colours, blinging gold or silver, racy red, or conservative black, and two different models, the smaller S model and the slightly larger W model I have for review, which includes a handy camera feature allowing you to see the almost instantaneous translation of any captured text, as well as an equally handy currency converter. Both models will fit not only in your pocket, but also, to give you an idea, in a pack of cards or a packet of cigarettes. More practically, at less than 80 grams, they can be worn comfortably around your neck, with a through-hole on the device body, though, unfortunately, not a lanyard included in the box.

Pocketalk: Various handy features are available, such as a camera that will translate printed text and a currency converter.

What is included is an embedded SIM, allowing the device to phone home and fetch your almost instantaneous translations from the company’s AI-powered machine translation service. Quite what backend translation service is used isn’t clear, but the provided translations are certainly comparable to the heavyweight players in the machine translation sphere, such as Google Translate and Microsoft Translator. The SIM will draw down as much data as you need for free in those 134 countries that are covered, and here lies the major advantage of a dedicated device such as this, rather than simply an app on your phone.

No roaming, no worries!

Though, in Europe, we are now spoilt by free data roaming throughout member states, charges will soon rack up elsewhere, or roaming may not even be available at all. Pocketalk’s embedded SIM, however, will automatically connect to a country’s services for free, without any additional contract or outlay. That is for the first two years after purchase anyway, after which you can prolong or buy back into Sourcenext’s data connection service across the same 134 countries for around 50 Euros a year, or rather add your own Micro SIM to the empty SIM drawer. It can also piggy-back on any Wi-Fi network, including your phone’s hotspot, and via Bluetooth too.

So how does it work? To find out, we took it on road-test to France, the problem being two-fold. First, that the whole family already speaks a decent level of French, author included, the second that we could just use Google Translate on our mobes instead, if we wanted to. So here comes the opportunity to underline what I believe to be the real unique selling points of the Pocketalk, apart from the obvious fact that, unlike us, you can use it for a language you have no prior knowledge of.

Take a break

The first unique selling point for me is that you can take a break from your all-purpose, all-encompassing, all-consuming cellular device. Just shove Pocketalk in a dusty drawer until your next holiday, yank it out as you snap closed your suitcase, and sling it comfortably around your neck while you hail a taxi for the airport. No need to impulse-buy a bilingual dictionary together with a stick of gum and today’s newspaper, before you rush to your gate.

Left in a dusty drawer, it’s possible you forgot to charge your trusty Pocketalk, but not too much of a worry here, as if you have a modern computer, phone or other electronic device, there’s a good chance of you already having a handy, industry-standard, no-need-to-see-if-it’s-the-right-way-up USB-C connector cable, or you can buy one duty-free, and plug-in at MacDo’s.

The world is your oyster

When you arrive at your destination and hop into a alien taxi, wallet in one hand, hand-luggage in the other, you will feel the reassuring light touch of Pocketalk against your chest. No need to fumble in the depths of your bag for your phone, and then poke around its app drawer for just the right app. Simply press Pocketalk’s jolly, illuminated front button, choose your language with a deft click, swipe and another click on the radiant colour touchscreen, and then press and hold the physical button once again to speak. On doing so, your speech will be automagically translated into a something your driver will probably not blink twice at before putting his foot to the metal.

Then, the world truly is your oyster. Place your Pocketalk on your one-star hotel reception’s counter and it will translate back to you any rules, regulations and indications of the area’s most Instagrammable bars, restaurants and vistas. Want to buy some souvenirs for your niece or nephew? Just stretch your Pocketalk towards your kindly shop-assistant for any assist you might need. Stuck with what to order at an ideogram-laden vending machine? Take a snap with the camera, and easily choose whatever ramen takes your fancy. Meet a local over a couple of beers? Slide your Pocketalk over like a hockey puck, and get more intimate, much more quickly than you would by using sign language alone.

Lost in translation

Plus it’s fun. Let’s face it, automatic translators are prone to making many mistakes – that’s why I still have a job as a translator – and those mistakes can be pretty embarrassing at times when it comes straight from your own mouth. But, here, you’ve always got the device to blame, it’s obvious to everyone that it’s the machine and it’s AI that’s doing all the work and is ultimately responsible. You’ve got a chance to try another turn of phrase. And if something worked well before, all you have to do is swipe down from the top of the screen to, amazingly, access the last up to 10,000 translations, of which you can favourite up to 500.

Pocketalk: Swipe down to access previous translations, and add them to your favourites.

Pocketalk’s interface is simple and intuitive, perfect for grampies and nannies, just as it is for little hands and technophobes. And this is, for me, it’s second selling point. It does what it says on the can. Today’s mobile phones are the modern world’s Swiss Army Knife, but there’s still a time and a place for a one-job-one-tool, for a device that, although it has three buttons, including “Volume Up”, “Volume Down”, “Power On/Off”, you will generally only end up using the one on the very front, “Hold and Speak”.

Rough guide

Lost in the shady, labyrinthine backstreets of a bustling metropolis, I wouldn’t want my Mum to just hand over her phone for someone, purportedly offering directions, to speak into, when, in actual fact, it’s a gateway to all her bank accounts, emails, documents and intimate photos. Sure, losing your precious Pocketalk would be a bummer, but the incident would stop right there.

So it can be particularly useful in stressful situations, as well as emergencies, as proven in February 2020’s COVID outbreak on the quarantined ‘Diamond Princess’ cruise ship, when, in response to an appeal by the Japanese Ministry of Health, Pocketalk’s maker, Sourcenext, donated a number of the devices to help ease communication between the 2,666 panicking international cruise vacationers and the local health authorities and medical practitioners.

Lingua franca

This is where Pocketalk really comes into its own. In Europe, despite our many languages, we have the luxury of many similar sounding words and a fairly decent level of basic common Globlish. When you are in a very far-flung foreign country, and in a fix, you can’t count on being able to decipher the syllables of widely shared Latin words from the wall of speech you are faced with, or guarantee that people can and are willing to speak a bit of English. So, particularly when it comes to West meets East, or East meets West, Pocketalk has your back.

Another nifty aspect, in such regard, is Pocketalk’s role-playing feature, which includes a range of common travel scenarios, such as an air hostess asking you whether you want the meat or vegetarian menu, or someone giving you directions. Unlike all the other features of Pocketalk, this actually gets you to directly practice speaking the target language yourself, just as if you were having a real conversation, and if you mispronounce a word, the role-playing AI will get you to repeat and try again. It will also display the text of the conversation turns, and you can click on the text to translate it.

Creature features

This is a great didactic tool, but, unfortunately, in my device, I only had the option of practising Chinese. Clearly, I would have liked other languages too, but I guess this feature is just a taster of either future developments or some of the company’s other products, such as FluentWorlds and PerfectAccent, which offer similar subscription services. At the end of day, Pocketalk’s aim is rather to do the hard work of communicating for you, rather than have you do the hard work of actually learning a language.

Pocketalk: The Chinese/English role-playing feature has contains plenty of conversational travel scenarios.

So that’s about it. There’s a beta hands-free option, which, basically, relieves you from having to press the button, as it keeps its ear open to the conversation and automatically switches between one language and the other. There’s a cute ‘Medal’ section that awards you for things such as the number of languages you have translated between, and the number of countries you have actually visited. And there are frequent maintenance and improvement updates; I’ve had about ten or so since having the device.

All the fun of the family

Now, let’s come back to our experience of Pocketalk as a family. Naturally, in France it wasn’t of much use for us. And, being a linguaphile family, we would surely learn the basics for any trip to a country we currently don’t speak the language of, such as the Czech Republic or Greece, where we could also always fall back to basic English.

Certainly, we would love to visit Japan one day, and there it would make a lot of sense, as it would in China, where learning the basics of the language is a lot more demanding, and you can still meet many people with very little basic English. Indeed, the further your home and native language is from where you are in the world and the local language, the more Pocketalk becomes useful.

Pocketalk: Sometimes, we’ll prepare well in advance before making a trip, both culturally and linguistically. Sometimes, we’ll just up and leave spontaneously, in which case, Pocketalk might be especially useful! This is an excellent book btw ;-).

Another scenario where Pocketalk would be fun to use for us is whenever we are waiting around in an airport and our oldest daughter takes up on her habit of making friends with other kids that speak a variety of languages.

She also has and has had classmates at school that speak Chinese and Arabic, and using Pocketalk in class, if her school encouraged or allowed it, or the playground or park, would be an amusing way to stimulate a little cultural exchange, without them having the distraction of using a smartphone.

However, being not only linguaphiles but also techophiles, we would normally use our mobile phones for most of the above scenarios. The only exception, and real use case for us, is when we are visiting a country without a data plan in place. Hopping from one Wi-Fi network to the next is ok when you want to upload a snap to Facebook, but not when you want to secure a hotel for that same night; a situation we frequently find ourselves in.

Here for you Nanny

The other exception is Nanny. Pocketalk would make a great gift for my own mum, as, when in Rome, it would save her from ordering a very expensive “cappuccino molto, molto caro”, rather than a lightly caffeinated “cappuccino molto, molto chiaro”, and, when, in Granada, it would remind her not to use fragments of her French or Italian, or keep her from bursting into fits of laughter every time she tries to use the word for “red”, yes, that’s right, “rojo”!

For me, for you

Therefore, to conclude this review, Pocketalk is a handy, powerful, little device, especially if you fall into any of the following categories:

  • You have a linguistically challenged parent or grandparent, or you admit to having your own difficulties or reservations.
  • You just want to chillax and enjoy your holiday without the bother of verbs, conjugations and intonations.
  • You are a frequent flyer busy racking up your multi-country miles.
  • You don’t want to always be reaching for your phone, or hunting down the next, elusive Wi-Fi hotspot.
  • You are simply going to the most distant, darkest corner of the planet, where everything is strange and new, and that’s what the locals think of you too.

Then, Pocketalk is most definitely for you!

Disclaimer: Though I received a device for voluntary review, I have not been paid for this article, nor do I receive any income from links that may lead to its purchase. That said, if you like the sound of the device, you can buy it direct from the manufacturer, or easily find it on Amazon, Ebay or similar, for about 250 smackeroos or something less. I would recommend getting a cheap lanyard to use with it, or make your own!



Les oliviers à Grenade ¡Olé!

Green, how I want you green

  • 17/05/202025/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

I have been following Lucie and her French language, Italian travel blog “L’occhio di Lucie, Voyages en Italie”, for several years, just as I have been reading the anecdotes of those writing for her monthly blog exchange entitled “Histoires Expatriées”, or “Expat Stories”. The exchange gives a voice to other bloggers similarly living abroad and writing in French. And now it’s my turn to take part and indulge myself in exploring the theme of this month: the colour green.

The words “Green, how I want you green” may not mean much to non-Hispanic readers, but are full of connotations in the original language form, “Verde que te quiero verde”, as they form the very first line of one of the most famous Spanish language poems of the 20th century, “Romance Sonámbulo”, Federico Garcia Lorca’s “Sleepwalking Ballad”. It is with these words that the great poet pays homage to his home region, the region that is now my home.

For Lorca, green is the colour of Andalusia.

Many front doors in Andalusia are green.
Many front doors in Andalusia are green.

Green is the main colour of Andalusia’s flag, and a reference to its Arab heritage, evident in its architecture and its cuisine. This region that is so rich in cultures, a true crossroads of civilizations, is also a highly cultivated landscape, dominated by vast swathes of green olive trees. It is therefore unsurprising that green is a constant throughout Lorca’s works, which often recount the beauty of the land and the peculiarity of its people.

Green, a symbol of tragedy

He drew much of his inspiration from peasants working in in the olive fields and from Andalusia’s marginalized and often persecuted gypsy population, whose lives were hard and yet extremely colourful. In reference to these populations, green, for Lorca, was not merely synonymous with hope, but with hard work and great suffering, and also something more: death.

Green, a symbol of passion

However, we are in Andalusia, and the heart of Andalusia beats to the rhythm of flamenco. Despite their difficulties, people keep smiling, and the five words “Verde que te quiero verde” permeate the whole of Andalusia with a myriad of meanings, serving, above all, as an expression of vibrant passion.

Andalusia, how I love you Andalusia

This article is a contribution to the blogging exchange entitled Histoires Expatriées, conceived by Lucie Tournebize and shared through her blog “L’Occhio di Lucie, Voyages en Italie”. Discover the other participants’ blogs and their writings on the theme of green:

• Agathe in Morocco

• Adrienne in the United Kingdom

• Karine in Hong Kong

• Eva in Japan

• Angélique in Senegal

• Nicolas and Agnès in Jordan

• Pauline in Korea

• Elizabeth in Kuwait

• Sarah in Scotland

• Camille in Vietnam

• Amélie and Laura in Italy

• Ophélie in the United Kingdom

• Catherine in Germany

• Last but not least the creator of the monthly exchange herself, Lucie in Italy

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Cette nuit, j'ai rêvé de l'Alhambra. Nous nous y promenions. Les jardins du Generalife étaient en fleurs. Le clapotis de l'eau des fontaines nous berçait. C'était le printemps. Nous n'étions pas seuls. Il y avait du monde autour de nous. Des personnes venues du monde entier. Elles riaient, se photografiaient dans la cour des Lions. Les enfants couraient dans les allées. Nous n'étions pas seuls. Nous jouions aux guides pour des amis connus à travers les réseaux sociaux. Le virtuel et le réel s'embrassaient. Main dans la main, ils se tenaient. ______________________________________ #rêve #alhambra #grenade #andalousie #andalucia #total_granada #ok_granada #espagne #tourisme #europe #architecture #patio #interpretation #andràtuttobene #todosaldrábien #sogno #pensee #reflet #miroir #concoursbabyandcie

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Jungle Concepto cereal café, Granada Business

Andalusian Businesses & Covid-19 – Cereal Café

  • 15/05/202023/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Andalusian businesses and Covid-19 – Interview with cereal café owner Ludovic Meloen

Andalusia is a very popular region with the French. Its warm climate, relaxed lifestyle and unique culture mean that millions of international tourists – as many as 12 million in 2019 – visit every year. Some decide to settle just for pleasure, and others decide to set up a business here. But for now, beyond all the red tape and cultural complications, those entrepreneurs are facing the unprecedented new challenge of Covid-19 restrictions affecting their businesses. To find out more about the difficulties of business coping with the Covid-19 crisis, I set up a virtual meeting with Ludovic Meloen, owner of the café Jungle Concepto, in Granada’s city centre.

The Jungle Concepto cereal café in Granada's town centre is currently shut due to Covid-19 restrictions.
Interior of the Jungle Concepto cereal café in Granada’s town centre

Ludovic Meloen, owner of the Jungle Concepto cereal café in Granada's town centre talks about the difficulties in facing the Covid-19 crisis.

Ludovic left his post at the fashion house Yves Saint Laurent in Paris for Granada, which he discovered on a trip around Andalusia. Having fallen under the spell of the City of the Alhambra, in 2017, he opened Jungle Concepto, an innovative cereal café.

Like many businesses, yours shut its doors when the state of alarm was declared. How do you feel about it today? What are you getting up to?

At the moment, I’m living day by day. I was finally able to do some spring cleaning, read some books, do some yoga, and cook. Everything I can’t normally do, because from morning to night, 7 days a week, I’m always in my shop.

Here, in Andalusia, we’re in “Phase 0”, which means I’m can’t open my doors yet. Considering the forecasts and the fact that I don’t have an outdoor space, I might just be able to open in late May or early June. But under what conditions? The hygiene, safety and social distancing conditions are extremely difficult to meet.

A simple example is the toilets. What do I do about them? Every time a customer goes to the toilets, I have to go in after and immediately clean up, but I’m all alone in the shop. How can I keep an eye on everything?

I’ve got a lot of unanswered questions. If I invest in Plexiglass partitions, will I receive any financial support for it? And is the investment really necessary if the law changes again in 1 week, 2 weeks or a month’s time?

Are you in contact with the authorities? Have you received any extra information because of how your business is affected?

No. What I do know I get from the press announcing measures they are going to bring in, my friends, and, of course, my business consultant. There’s no direct communication. For example, us business owners haven’t received any information pack detailing we need to do to be able to reopen or giving us any answers to our questions.

Talking to others here, it’s clear I’m not the only one worried about it all. We know that as small businesses, it will be much more difficult to take all the necessary precautions.

Have you benefited from any subsidy in relation to the state of alarm?

Yes, my business consultant did all the paperwork. For completely closing my business down, I get just over 650 Euros per month. The first quarter tax payments were moved to May, which is a bit ridiculous really, because if you can’t pay in April, you still won’t be able to pay in May.

Is it enough?

Of course not! There are expenses I still have to pay, such as social security contributions, the rent of my shop, electricity, suppliers, and so on and so forth. And that’s just on the professional side of things! Then there’s my private life and once again the rent, electricity, food, etcetera.

Have you come to any agreement with your landlords over rent?

Yes, I’m quite lucky. That’s not the case for many others. I managed to renegotiate the rent for my premises for this month and the next. For my home, I can pay the rent a little later. That’s not much, but it’s something.

Everybody’s talking about what will happen this summer. There is a strong demand to reopen businesses, and relaunch tourism here in Andalusia …

That’s normal. Andalusia’s economy relies heavily on tourism. And summer is peak season. For me, it’s a little different. Jungle Concepto isn’t on Granada’s Tropical Coast, or in Marbella. I am in the centre of Granada and my clientèle’s made up mainly by students. When I’m allowed to reopen, there’ll be no more students. Likewise, I get many foreign customers. I’m listed in Le Routard travel guide and on various South Korean travel websites. But, with the borders closed, I have to say goodbye to this clientèle. And then, in summer, all the people who live in Granada go to the beach. Without the tourists the city will be empty. I think that, for a city like Granada, which, in summer, lives mainly off of foreign tourism, it will be extremely hard!

How do you see the future in general?

I don’t know. I ask myself lots of questions. Will people go out as the did before? What are their priorities? How will individual people react? Is my business model still viable? Today, I can hold on. But what will happen in three months’ time? In 6 months? Will I have to offer a take-out service? And give up on inviting people to spend time in my café? When you go out, it’s also and above all a moment of relaxation in company, of socialization. If I start offering take-outs, that means more packaging and more transportation, when we know that waste and pollution are major problems for our society.

I’m a businessman, but I’m also a consumer. If I’m asking myself all these questions, others are too. However, I’m not afraid. I’m positive. This situation may change us, and, indeed, might change our way of living. In the meantime, let’s be patient!


Jungle Concepto is in Calle Málaga, 19, 18002 Granada, Spain.

Check out its Instagram profile and Facebook page.


Article originally published in French in Le Petit Journal, the local and international news site for French expatriates and French speakers.


Read my other interviews with Andalusian business owners facing the Covid-19 crisis:

– Flamenco fashion designer Antonio Gutiérrez.

– Hotel owners Virginie and Betrand.


Patio fleuri ©Boredwithborders2019 ¡Olé!

Cordoba, city of magical sights, scents and sounds

  • 29/08/201908/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Cordoba, city of magical sights, scents and sounds

Welcome to the sights, scents and sounds of Cordoba, a magical city where, behind almost every building façade, lies a magnificent open-air courtyard, or ‘patio’.

Before continuing to read this article about the beautiful Andalusian city of Cordoba and its most famous festival, why not check out my Andalusian Spotify playlist?

Does that set the scene?

Now, imagine some flowers, a whole load of flowers, absolutely everywhere, and of all shapes and colours!

Are you seeing it all?

If you want to experience the real thing, the time to visit is undoubtedly at the beginning of May, as the flower-full patios are proudly opened up to the public on occasion of the city’s world famous ‘Patio Festival’, listed as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2012.

Every year, thousands of people flock to Cordoba with one goal in mind: to visit as many patios as possible. Grabbing a map, leaflet, booklet or card, they plan their itinerary and set about marking off the stops one by one. The most renowned patios are quick stormed, building up long queues on pavements outside. If you’re lucky, you might only spend a half waiting to get in, and, in the meantime, you might strike up a pleasant conversation with your fellow queuers. But there are plenty of smaller patios tucked away in delightful corners of the old town, where you can spend longer admiring all the flowers and foliage around you and chatting away with the patio owners. On the other hand, if your mission is to see each and every patio, well, it’s pretty much mission impossible. Or, at least, you’ll need quite a few days to do it, since the patios are only open for a few hours a day, and are strewn right throughout the city. But you’ll have to sharpen your elbows! If you want to take a rather more leisurely pace, just stroll around, check out a few of the patios with lesser queues, get a refreshment here and there, and listen to the sound of Flamenco music that seems to permeate the narrow, cobbled streets. You could even indulge in a horse-driven cart ride around the sights of this multi-awarded UNESCO city.

Apart from the patios, you can also decide to visit the city by theme, historical period or at random, but, at least on your first visit, there are certain must-sees that you really can’t afford to miss.

What are the unmissable sights of Cordoba?

The Mosque-Cathedral, UNESCO World Heritage Site

First of all, it’s pretty much sacrilege to visit Cordoba without visiting the ‘Mezquita’, its ‘Mosque-Cathedral’. In turn, this religious place has been a temple, a basilica, a mosque and a cathedral, and, by its various architectural influences, is considered one of a kind in the world. The cathedral stands today as a witness of the various settlers of the city over the centuries, including Romans, Visigoths, Arabs and Castilians.

Leaving the cathedral, you will likely step straight into the ‘Judería’, the medieval Jewish quarter, a maze of alleyways and souvenir shops. It’s a beautiful part of the city to get lost in, though its restaurants are quite the tourist trap.

Digging deeper into the history of Cordoba, you will learn that it was once the capital of Baetica, one of the three provinces of the ancient Roman Empire on the Iberian Peninsula, corresponding more or less to the size and shape of Andalusia as we know it today.

The name, Baetica, comes from the River Baetis, nowadays known as the Guadalquivir. In the city centre, you can still cross the river by its Roman bridge, restored on numerous occasions and an outstanding example of ancient Roman engineering and architecture. Heading back through the centre, on the far side of the Jewish quarter, you also will find the remains of a Roman temple, right next to the town hall.

The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir

Just a few steps from the temple is the imposing square of Plaza de la Corredera. This focal point in the Cordoba scene is the only quadrangular ‘Plaza Mayor’ in the whole of Andalusia, where the term ‘Plaza Mayor’ is used to denote a main square historically used as a marketplace, the location of the town hall and a ‘place-of-arms’, a large open space in which to gather soldiers, weapons and supplies in case of attack. It also makes for perfect place to sit down and have a bite to eat on your tour around the city.

Returning towards the banks of the Guadalquivir, you should visit the ‘Alcázar of the Catholic Monarchs’. The ‘Alcázar’, a Spanish word taken from the Arabic ‘al-qasr’ meaning ‘palace’ in Arabic, was one of the fortified residences of Queen Isabella I of Castile, the first catholic queen of Spain, and her husband, King Ferdinand II of Aragon. It also served as one of the very first courts of the Spanish Inquisition, and was one of the locations where the king and queen consulted with Christopher Columbus before his impending voyage of discovery of the Americas.

So here are the absolute must-sees for a first short visit to Cordoba:

TIPS:

Top tip: Visit the Alcázar by night to see an awe-inspiring show of its refreshing fountains, lit in a multitude of constantly changing colours and pumping to the sounds of Flamenco and Arabic music. All this is set to a recounting of the history of Cordoba, and of the city’s importance not only for the Catholic Monarchs, but also as a capital city of Al-Andalus, the region of Spain once ruled over by the Moors. It all makes for an extraordinary spectacle that you’ll remember in intricate detail for years to come. For more information and tickets, visit the webpage of the city’s tourist office.

The perfect Instagram spot: ‘Calleja de las Flores’, or ‘Alley of Flowers’, a flower-lined street, in the Jewish quarter, that quickly narrows towards a backdrop of the Mosque-Cathedral’s main tower.

Did you know … ?

Cordoba has been listed 6 times by UNESCO, and boasts more UNESCO Heritage sites than anywhere else in the world. These include the Mosque-Cathedral, the historic city centre, the Patio Festival, and the Medina Azahara, the Caliphate City to the western outskirts of the modern city. Added to these four listings, are two of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity for Flamenco music and dance and the Mediterranean diet, which reference larger geographical areas that include Cordoba.

Feel free to comment, share your own suggestions, ask for advice, or simply share this article.

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Des fleurs aux balcons et des patios riches en couleurs, bienvenue à Cordoue. ▪ #cordoue #cordoba #andalousie #andalucia #viva_andalucia #patios #flores #patiosgram18 #cordopolis #ok_spain #ok_andalucia #total_cordoba #total_andalucia #total_espania #igerscordoba #estaes_cordoba #estaes_andalucia #loves_cordoba #todocordobac #spain #espagne #spain_vacations #unesco #travel #ok_europe #vsco #fiestas #flowers #mayocordobés #casas

A post shared by Coralie Neuville (@coralieneuville) on May 5, 2018 at 2:57pm PDT

¡Olé!

My Andalusian Playlist – ‘Envie de voyage : Andalousie’

  • 26/08/201908/05/2020
  • by Coralie Neuville

Find my Andalusian playlist on Spotify, press play, and close your eyes to take your mind on a trip across this inspirational land.

But don’t expect to hear any Gipsy Kings or Reggaeton! On my playlist, you’ll find some of the great Andalusian composers, singer songwriters and performers, admired not only across Spain, but also extremely well-respected internationally.

Stay tuned as I update the playlist with more artists and songs.

Flamenco Graffiti ©Boredwithborders2019

The rhythm of Flamenco interpreted by a mural in the centre of Málaga near to the Picasso Museum.

Who is … ?

Vicente Amigo: Considered one of Flamenco’s greatest contemporary composers and guitarists, he grew up in Cordoba, and paid homage to the city in his album entitled ‘Ciudad de las Ideas’, meaning ‘City of Ideas’.

Paco de Lucia: If you know anything at all about Flamenco, you will already have heard this name. Largely known as the greatest Flamenco guitarist of all time, it is mostly thanks to him that the world over knows the distinctive sounds of Flamenco.

Estrella Morente: Originally from Granada, she has one of the most celebrated voices on the contemporary Flamenco seen. If you have seen Pedro Almodóvar’s film ‘Volver’, hers is the title track of the same name.

Pablo López: Discovered on the television show ‘Operación Triunfo’, the Spanish version of ‘Fame Academy’ in the UK, he is one of the leading exponents of the latest generation of Spanish singer songwriters. He is currently a jury member of ‘La Voz’, the Spanish version of the TV singing competition ‘The Voice’.

David Bisbal: Once again discovered on the show ‘Operación Triunfo’, he is one of the biggest selling artists in Spain and South America. His song ‘Todo es Posible’, ‘Everything is possible’, features in the animated film ‘Tad the Lost Explorer and the Secret of King Midas’, which is partly set in the city of Granada.

Manuel Carrasco: Here’s another artist discovered through the show ‘Operación Triunfo’. He has participated in a number of other TV shows as a jury member.

Pastora Soler: Representative for Spain in Eurovision 2012 with her song ‘Quédate Conmigo’, ‘Stay with me’, she has a varied musical style that fluctuates between modern Flamenco and Pop.

Not born in Andalusia, but born of Andalusian parents:

Malú: Niece of the acclaimed guitarist Paco de Lucia, she is one of the most well-respected artists of the Spanish contemporary scene.

Alejandro Sanz: The Spanish singer songwriter par excellence, he’s a bit like the UK’s Gary Barlow, or Canada’s Bryan Adams. He achieved instant international fame through his collaboration with Shakira on the song ‘La Tortura’.

Did you know that … ?

Los Del Rio: The original Latin pop duo responsible for the dance hit ‘La Macarena’ hailed from the Andalusian city of Seville.

If you know of any other Andalusian artists you think deserve a mention, don’t hesitate to leave a comment and I’ll be happy to add them to my playlist.

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Buller devant la cathédrale de Grenade. ——————————————————————— #fairedesbulles #bulle #bubbles #cathedrale #church #cattedrale #granada #grenade #andalousie #andalusia #andalucia #spain #architecture #vsco #facade #place #visit_spain #life #beautifuldestination #ok_granada #ok_andalucia #ok_monuments #total_granada #estaes_granada #summer #été #total_andalucia #igers_granada

A post shared by Coralie Neuville (@coralieneuville) on Jul 19, 2018 at 8:24am PDT

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